Every Christmas my father took us to Luchow’s, a German restaurant in New York City. Every year he miraculously acquired the table by the huge Christmas tree. And every year we had the same menu: Sauerbraten topped with Potato Dumplings.
We’d enter from the door on 14th street into another world, one of dark wood, high ceilings, decorative beer steins, and oil paintings by Dutch and German artists. Luchow’s was founded in 1882, when 14th street was lined with German beer halls—but this one lasted the longest and was the best loved. It was with tremendous sadness that I learned it was being closed in 1982.
This is where I had my first Marinated Herring. My first Welsh Rarebit. And my first and only Apple Fritters with Wine Foam. It is with great nostalgia that I share with you and hopefully perpetuate Luchow’s memory—the recipe for Apple Fritters with Wine Foam.
Luchow’s Apple Fritters With Wine Foam
3 medium apples
1/4 cup white wine
1/2 cup white sugar
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 cup sifted flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk
3 tablespoons butter
1. Peel and core apples. Slice into thick slices. Mix wine, sugar, baking powder, and cinnamon and pour over apples. Cover and let stand for 1 hour.
2. Heat oven to low temp. Mix together batter by beating eggs, flour, salt and milk smoothly together. Dip apples in the batter and saute in hot butter until almost set. Top each with more batter; let cook until browned on both sides. Drain on paper towels and place on a tray in the oven to keep warm. Serve with the following recipe for Wine Foam.
8 eggs, separated
1 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/2 cup Madeira
pinch of salt
Beat the 8 egg yolks and sugar in upper part of double boiler over hot, but not boiling water. When slightly thickened and foamy, gradually add the Madeira wine; continue to beat the sauce until it doubles in volume and begins to thicken. Beat the egg whites until stiff. Fold gently into the wine foam and dollop on top of the apple fritters.